Friday, January 29, 2010

The Rich Coast

Costa Rica marked my first trip to Central America. It took me too long to visit. I can't wait to return. "Latin America," my friend Kelley recently described, "is a diverse rainbow." Her description of the people and the land was dead-on. Like many post-colonial nations, the people are a blend of their unique stories and histories. In the capitol of San Jose a lot of the people seemed very Spanish European. Up North, the people had a different way about them, perhaps they had more Amerindian blood, were very laid back and embodied the "gaucho" style. On the Caribbean Coast, were communities of people of African descent. Brought over from Jamaica, an Island Patois was spoken. Costa Rica was a beautiful blend of cultures, tastes, energy and art. I was acutely aware of one groups sparse numbers however. You are hard pressed to find many indigenous Amerindians. They have been virtually wiped out, the amazing, disappearing people. It is a sad reality, the dirty side of the Americas.





There was a national park about a half mile from our bungalow. Why is it that wherever I travel, I seem to be flocked by monkeys? The park was home to howler monkeys, and boy could they howl.





Our bungalow was right on the beach. I opened the door in the morning to an exquisite view of the Caribbean Sea. In the bungalow next door, was a couple from Australia. We buddied up for a few days playing dominoes like the locals (everywhere we went, men sat out with a bottle of beer and a game of dominoes), eating (I wasn't too impressed with the food), snorkeling (watch out for the sea urchins) and grabbing drinks at local dive establishments.
Cahuita has a reputation for being dangerous. People in San Jose were constantly warning me about the dangers on the other side of the country. I found the exact opposite. People were extremely friendly and welcoming. I believe that common sense is always a persons best guide.






Cahuita

I turned 30 right here overlooking the Carribean Sea. It was the perfect place to welcome my third decade. After staying in San Jose with my friend Liza, my boyfriend flew out and we took a bus to Cahuita on the Carribean coast. Cahuita, an English speaking enclave of people, descendants of Jamaicans brought to Costa Rica as laborers, was truly a laid back, cool place. We stayed in a little backpackers bungalow right on the beach. It was a lazy week of bliss.







beautiful arenal





Pura Vida - I loved Costa Rica!




Sometimes it's great to go solo. That was my approach to hiking in Arenal. I opted for a horseback and hiking tour. I took a horseback trail up to the top of the volcano, then hiked down. The riding trail was amazing. A little frightening at times, like when my horse walked up a thin slippery, rocky path behind a waterfall, but it was worth it. It was just me and the guide going horseback. I had the opportunity to gallop through cattle fields and meander through rain forrest. My horse did take off at a full sprint a few times, much to my horror, as I bent down to avoid being flogged in the face by tree branches.
The horse ride went about 3/4 of the way up the volcano. The rest of the hike by foot was very calm. The views were breathtaking, but at the same time, there were a lot of tourists. After being alone in nature for the hour and a half to get to the volcano, I was thrown off by all of the other people on the hiking trail.
I like to make-believe that I'm on my own private island when I travel.

Beautiful Grenada

Nicaragua was a last minute, spur of the moment trip. I travelled to Costa Rica for a few weeks, and my friend Liza and I found ourselves with a little extra time on our hands. San Jose was rainy and cool, we needed out. We packed our bags, hopped a bus, set off without much of a plan and led ourselves on a tour of the charming colonial city Grenada.
Grenada was only about ten hours away from San Jose. The bus ride was cheap and efficient. The ride was beautiful, I got a really great sense of Costa Rica as we travelled through the countryside. I made a mental note to stop off at Arenal on the way back.

The food in Nicaragua was fantastic. I am a big fan of the plantain and cheese in a banana leaf dish (I have no idea what it is called). The central market was a great place to grab cheap bites. Restaurants were also ubiquitous, boasting a host of local and international cuisines. Grenada stands out in my memory as a wonderful, laid-back, friendly place.
Hammocks were everywhere. The weather was wonderfully warm and humid. Peopole seemed so genuinely happy and were extremely patient about my humble attempts at speaking Spanish.











Nicaragua - a photo journey (Summer 2009)






Grenada was charming, quaint and tasty. The people were so welcoming.

Check out my article at its home at www.travmonkey.com "When in Zanzibar" by: Sojourner Walker

When in Zanzibar…
Submitted by Sojourner Walker on January 28, 2010

Artist stall at the cultural festival

1) The annual Sauti Za Busara festival is a must see in Zanzibar!

Every February, musicians, artist and craftsmen come from all over the vast African continent to set up booths and take the stage for this six-day music, art and cultural extravaganza.

By day, browse the artisan shops for jewelry, paintings and unique gifts. By night, view documentaries by emerging filmmakers and directors, then dance and sway the night away to live African music. If you still have stamina for the after-party, an array of international DJ’s spin into the morning hours beneath the vivid constellations.

The Sauti Za Bursura festival is truly a multicultural affair, bringing locals, tourists and Afro-files together. It was here last year where I first experienced the sultry pleasure of Tarab music, a mixture of Arabic beats, Arabic, and soulful Swahili. I was even fortunate enough to see the grand dame of Zanzibari Tarab music, Bi Kidude perform live. Well into her 90’s, Kidude was sassy and sharp, wowing the audience with her presence, style and performance.

This year the festival will take place from February 11th – 16th. For information email: busara@zanlink.com or call + 255 24 223 2423.
Spice Tour Meal

Sample the local food on a spice tour

2) Go on a Spice Tour!

One of the most sacred stops along the Arabic trade route, Zanzibar has earned itself the title “Spice Island.” The land here is fertile and rich, allowing for the cultivation of a plethora of herbs and spices, endemic and imported. It is easy to arrange a Spice Tour, as there are numerous companies that advertise in almost every hotel and hostel. Most tours are approximately four hours and depart from the capitol Stone Town. The tour I took was very thorough and intimate. I traveled with a group of eight. Our tour guides were extremely knowledgeable. Having studied Ayurveda, it was captivating to see how spices were used in Zanzibar both medicinally, and for culinary purposes. The tour does require a bit of hiking, so be prepared to sweat. The tour highlights were the sample saps, spices and exotic fruits that we were allowed to taste and the aromatic and delicious lunch prepared for us by some of the women in the village.

Monkey

3) Visit Chumbe Island Coral Park!

Chumbe Island Coral Park is paradise. I have never seen so many vibrant shades of green. The park is particularly unique because the island exists atop a colony of fossilized coral. Extremely fertile, an entire forest has sprung up boasting a variety of flora. Tours are inexpensive and informative. The park focuses on preservation and education. Chumbe Island Coral Park was a peaceful sanctuary. We were led through jungle canopies and over streams. The park is an amazing opportunity to take photographs of both plant species and animals. Monkeys called out as they swung above us from branch to branch. There were several varieties of butterflies, reptiles and birds. No, I didn’t see any snakes, but as my guide kept reminding us “they are all around us- watching.”

Chumbe Island Coral Park

P.O. Box 3203, Zanzibar/ Tanzania

Telephone: + 255 – (0) 24-2231040

Email: ask@chumbeisland.com

And of course, once you have had your adventure, take the time to lie out and soak up the rays. The beaches are absolutely phenomenal. The Indian Ocean is warm, pristine and gentle, but be warned, sea urchins are ubiquitous.

by: Sojourner Walker

Sojourner Walker currently lives in New York where she works as a freelance writer and teaches Drama to middle school students in Brooklyn. Always plotting her next getaway, it looks like a yoga trip in Brazil is on the horizon.

There are some places in this world you feel so fortunate to have been blessed to experience - Zanzibar is one of these places





I went to Zanzibar last February (2009) and I can't wait to return. The following posts are a serries of photos documenting my trip.

each breath...a lifetime of moments